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When a server introduces himself, proceeds to tell you how wonderful the food is and then warns you about the restaurant’s lack of organization and potentially less than stellar service you’re about to receive, you know you’re in for an interesting ride. For the most part, he was right.
That is how our evening began on a recent Saturday at Che!!!, the Delray Beach restaurant located in the former digs of Hudson at Waterway East. Pronounced “Shay,” and meaning “hey,” the restaurant specializes in Argentinean and Spanish cuisines.
Sibling co-founders Martin and Daniela Sujoy are pursuing a path laid by their parents, who founded the concept in their hometown of Buenos Aires more than 30 years ago. In 2001, the siblings went international by opening their first location in Spain. More than a dozen restaurants followed, each catering to a specific demographic: Che American Style, Che Pizza & Pasta, Che Grill House, Che Ristorante Italiano, Che Asador Argentino and Che Express. The flagship U.S. location opened at the beginning of September in Delray Beach .
The 8,000-square-foot space, seating close to 300 people, offers a main dining room, outdoor dining tables, an outdoor bar area and a high-top table that lines the deck overlooking the Intracoastal. Noticeable immediately upon entering the reimagined spot is an overall lighter feel. Faux white-marbled flooring and whitewashed barn board lend an airy feel, accentuated by the sprawling, scenic views. But given the beautiful waterway backdrop, I couldn’t wrap my head around the vases of fake flowers decorating the deck or the plastic-grass centerpieces. Televised sporting events, a raucous bar crowd, dining room chatter and piped-in music all competed for airspace. Thankfully, a DJ was just setting up while we were there.
Hearing the sizzle of garlic shrimp ($15) placed before me put a smile on my face. Knowing the crustaceans bathed in olive oil, garlic and chilies were arriving directly from the oven elevated the anticipation. Cooked perfectly, with just the right amount of spice, the dish was excellent. The only thing that could have made it better is if our drinks had been served before the appetizers.
The oil used to fry the two generously stuffed Argentinean empanadas ($8) was fresh and at the proper temperature. The result was a clean-tasting, crispy meat pie that revealed a flavorful filling of beef, green olives, peppers and boiled egg. Chimichurri roja, a variation on the classic verde, added an acidic blast. Unlike its smoked or cured cousins, the fresh Argentinean chorizo (for which we were charged $8, though the menu reads $9) is a tamer version. Although it was tasty, and served with chimuchurri roja, a little char from more grill time would add flavor and texture and render more fat. A side salad garnished the plate, and the chorizo was served with a roll for those longing for a choripán. The appetizer menu also includes a creamy gazpacho with crunchy rice ($7); pulpo a la gallega Galician-style octopus ($11); and morcilla, or blood sausage ($9).
A wood-fired, oven-baked fig flatbread ($12) was topped with fig preserves, blue cheese, green apples, arugula, goat cheese and caramelized onions. While I appreciated the housemade crust, the translucent, sauteed onions lacked caramel flavor. As I’ve preached before, it’s all in the details. A Caprese ($12) and Espana ($12) with tapenade, spinach, and Manchego round out the mini pizza offerings.
Leaning toward the classics, we skipped a selection of four homemade pastas ($16-$22) — pappardelle Bolognese, crab agnolotti, and spinach or ham and cheese raviolis — and headed for the beef. Given our server’s brutally honest approach from the get-go, it came as no surprise that our bone-dry water carafe and glasses remained empty and that the table needed clearing of appetizers and dirty plates as our main courses arrived.
Smoky bacon, sweet prunes, red pepper and onions skewered with cubes of tender beef filet on the steak brochette ($28) was a solid and satisfying choice. The bife de chorizo Buenos Aires ($32), a common cut in Argentina, has nothing to do with the sausage. Known stateside as sirloin or New York strip steak, it was served with roasted peppers, peas, fries and chimichurri, and cooked to the desired temperature with a nicely grilled char. But it was a bit chewier than I prefer. Among the list of nine steaks, other meat options include filet mignon ($33), skirt steak ($36) and rib-eye ($32) with creamy black peppercorn sauce.
Rounding out the entrée choices are Maryland-style crab cakes ($29), grilled salmon with black mushroom trumpet risotto ($29), and Swiss chicken supreme or chicken fine herbs ($20). Milanesa Napolitana ($20), a moist and tender veal parmigiana, gets an Argentinian twist when layered with ham, cheese and tomato sauce. My tablemate was pleased with the temperature of the Che!! Burger ($15), loaded with Spanish ham, goat cheese, caramelized onions, sans caramelization, and garlic aioli on a brioche bun. It just lacked the moistness that passes the burger bar.
When it comes to spuds, Che!!! does right by its South American ancestry. The fries served with all our plates were divine. They were appropriately thick, balancing crisp exteriors with tender, cooked centers. The frying oil came through again — clean and at the correct temperature.
If you have a serious sweet tooth, consider the Chocolatche!!! Cake ($9), a wedge of dense, flourless cake topped with torched marshmallow and drizzled with caramel sauce. Abuelo’s apple pie ($9) was served with a grainy, faux-tasting vanilla ice cream and a caramel sauce. Banofee ($9) was the piece de résistance, with layered dulce de leche, bananas and whipped cream served in a Mason jar. It also had a nut toffee that probably should be part of the description, since nuts are a common allergen. And it did not have or need the layer of pastry that our very transparent, self-proclaimed experienced yet ill-trained, quirky yet charming, server described.
Che!!!
900 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach
561-562-5200, CheRestaurant.com
Cuisine: Argentinean and Spanish
Cost: Moderate-expensive
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily
Reservations: Accepted
Credit cards: All major
Bar: Full
Sound level: Noisy when full
Outside smoking: No
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Parking: Self-parking lot, valet on weekends
Kids: Highchairs, kids under 12 eat free at lunch, kids’ dinner menu
